Travelled there in December before Christmas with my nephew. Stayed in the Panama Hilton (or is it “Hilton Panama”) – good hotel – clean and centrally located. Nice rooms, we had two queen beds and a desk with a great view for less than $200 a night. Great gym and a very nice pool, that you could swim laps in.
Great price for the caliber of the hotel, but additional charges could easily pile up.
First, the breakfast: At check in the hotel clerk offered me breakfast for the duration of the stay, at a price of $45 for each day for the two of us. My first reaction was, “no thanks” thinking I would be able to find a little local place near by where we would get a little local flavor and experience. Not the area for it apparently though. So, as it turned out we went for the breakfast at the hotel a few times and just gave our room number. It was a nice buffet with an omelet bar, and all kinds of pastries and fruits and juices. It was good I turned it down at check in, because at check out, the bill came and I think we got a few free breakfasts, and the ones we were billed for were only $38.
Another cost: they have their own cab squad. The rides start at $20, in a city where locals are getting around for $2 a ride, and tourists for $5 pretty much anywhere. We walked ten feet to the curb and caught our own cabs.
There is no complimentary water at the hotel. The minibar water starts at $5 a bottle. We went for it the first night, but after that we made sure that we always returned to the room with a liter of water that we bought elsewhere for a buck. You need to drink a lot down there – less than ten degrees from the equator the sun beats on you. I usually scout out the nearest supermarket when I arrive at a new spot, and stock the room, but there wasn’t a store near where we were.
Ancon Hill: In Panama City the high spot is Ancon Hill. It’s about a 30 minute walk up to the top where there is a big Panamanian flag and a cell tower. It’s free to walk up. No cars are allowed. You take a cab to the gate and arrange for the cab to return an hour later to pick you up. You won’t find a cab there. It’s in an administrative area – all government buildings.
It was our first day and first excursion in a cab in Panama. I had been told by someone that the cab there would be between five and ten dollars. We get there and I ask how much. He asks me, “ How much do you want to pay?”
“Six bucks” I say.
“OK” – he was psyched. We got his cell number for good measure and hiked up the hill. He returned to pick us up an hour later. It is a good place as any to start your Panama Tour if you don’t have any day trips planned for that day.
Amador Causeway: The Causeway was built with landfill excavated during the construction of the canal. It connects islands close to the city.
After we climbed Ancon Hill we took a $5 cab to the beginning of the causeway, near the Biodiversity Museum designed by Frank Gehry (below). His wife is Panamanian, and I think I heard it is his only building in Central America (or Latin America)
There is a bike rental place just before you get to the museum. We rented bikes there for $3.50/hour and rode down the causeway to the two islands connected to the mainland by the causeway – the last being Flamenco Island. There you can get a good shot of the city over the water. There are also restaurants out there that look good and are right by the docks. Ferry’s for day trips leave from there. Our Canal (partial) Transit boat left from there
Patagonia Grill was a steak house I found on the net and also rated as one of the better restaurants in Panama City. Wanted to have one steak night and am such a fan of the place Patagonia that it was a no brainer. The food was good. Steak au Poivre (“Pimiento”). The Waiter was great, good Malbec wine. Reasonably priced for a steak place great ambiance. Woody like a ranch house.
Parque Metropolitano. Just on the outskirts of town (a ten dollar cab ride) is a park that has miles of trails that ascend to a lookout with spectacular views around the city . There is a fee to get in $8 – I think. After the entrance there is a butterfly cage (an extra $5 each) could have been skipped, but we went in. The humidty is trapped in there so you pour sweat, and there are butterflies, but they are fluttering around constantly , so photo ops are few and far between. We spent about four minutes inside.
The rest of the park has sloths, capybara, Small deer, turtles, monkeys, and of course all kind of birds. But we didn’t see anything more than a bird or two and the turtles in the little pond at the beginning of the trail. We were told there were sloths near the pond, but no sign of them. One interesting thing about the place is the numerous ant colonies that are hard at work and consist of trailing ants carrying leaves.
It is a cardio workout, because of the uphill paths – and an all around sweaty experience – carry lots of water. Everyday is a sweaty experience in Panama.
The Canal: The only thing that you absolutely must see, either from land at the Miraflores Locks, or from the water on a full or partial transit, is the Canal. We went online and booked tickets in advance as there are only certain days where they allow tourist boats to make the trip. The Full Transit takes you through all the locks from ocean to ocean. It takes all day and you drive back from the other end after its over. You can go in either direction (I think) but most are heading east from Panama City to Colon on the Caribbean side.
The Cinta Costera – Along the coast there is a walkway called the Cinta Costera – it is several kilometers long – at least seven. The beginning of it is right across from the Hilton Panama on the other side of Avenida Balboa. We walked along it at high noon, which is not recommended, there is little shade along the way so it can be a sweaty experience. At the end you’ll run into the Fish Market. There you find little booths making fresh ceviche and other things. It is outside in the open air, but the eating area is roofed for shade.
You’ll know you’re there when people start approaching you with menus trying to draw you to their booth. There are some cool photo ops there and fisherman and boats on the other side of the walk from the market.
Just beyond the Fish Market is on the Cinta is Casco Viejo (Old Town). Where you find Cobblestone streets, old buildings and the only place where foot traffic is common. There are restaurants and people hawking with menus there as well. There is a well air-conditioned church in one of the squares where you can pop in for a few minutes and “pray” to be cooler – it works – ah miracles. I had read about a place in Casco Viejo called Coca Cola Café, on Avenida Central.
We searched it out and had lunch there. It was air-conditioned and full of locals. The food is good and inexpensive: My nephew had a Filet Mignon wrapped in bacon and topped with mushrooms with a huge plate of fries – $9.50.
A little removed from the center of town there is an area called Panama Viejo (Old Panama). It was the first settlement of the Spaniards in the country. Not long after a treaty was signed ending the war between England and Spain, Captain Cook and 2000 pirates raided the area for the gold that was being transported through the new world hub. The city was sacked. Now there are ruins, and a Museum there.
There is an entrance fee. It was around $7. The museum lays out the history of the place, and there are relics and bones.
You can climb to the top of the 70 meter tower and get a great view of the area.
Chin Chin Restaurant in the hotel Yoo Panama was a great restaurant two doors down from the Hilton Panama. Asian Fusion. Great (interesting) cocktails and great food with too many choices of goodness.
You want more than you order, but don’t need it as portions are generous. We had a fried calamari appetizer that may have just been the best I’ve ever had – or will. There were chopped peppers (jalapenos) and other vegetables mixed in with the superbly fried squid rings. Had a curry fish dish with about a half pound of delicious sea bass (Corvino).